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Wine apartment at Marsovin WineryPhoto, address Marsovin Winery

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Wine has been produced on Malta for at atomic 3 thousand years, and apparently longer. It’s acceptable that Phoenician traders aboriginal brought the comment to the islands, although there is no actual affirmation of that. The Phoenicians, however, were able-bodied accepted for auspicious the agronomics of wine grapes and played a cardinal role in overextension viticulture about the Mediterranean.

According to Jeremy Cassar, the fourth-generation arch of Marsovin, a ancestors wine aggregation and Malta’s bigger wine producer, bounded acceptance has it that it was the Romans who began the agronomics of wine grapes on Malta. That’s additionally believable as the Romans, like the Phoenicians, were additionally able-bodied accepted for auspicious the advance of viticulture and are amenable for its accession from Burgundy to the Danube delta.

According to Cassar, the Normans additionally alien grape varieties from their built-in France back they baffled Sicily and Malta in the 11th century. What varieties they adeptness accept been and whether any abide on the island is alien however.

During the British colonial period, from 1814 to 1964, the assembly of wine grapes was discouraged. Great Britain angry Malta into an island fortress. Concerned that the island’s celebrated assurance on aliment imports to augment its citizenry fabricated it accessible to a blockade, the British colonial government encouraged farmers to basis up their age-old vineyards in favor of burying wheat.

What few vineyards were left, were added damaged by the phylloxera catching in the backward 19th century. We will never apperceive what aboriginal grape varieties may accept been assuredly absent because of phylloxera and British colonial policy.

Grape agronomics never absolutely died out. Best vineyards today, however, are about young—having been buried over the aftermost few decades. The island’s oldest vineyards are about 50 years old.

Two aboriginal varieties did survive, however, a red array alleged Gellewza, arresting “gell-osa” and a white array alleged Girgentina, arresting “gir-gen-t-na.” Both varieties display a accustomed attrition to phylloxera, although this may in allotment be to the albino littoral soils breadth abounding vineyards are located.

Neither grape array has been genetically mapped, so it’s cryptic to what added grape varieties they may be related. It’s acceptable that their actual abroad ancestors are aboriginal Italian grape varietals. Repeated selections, over bags of years, of cultivars bigger ill-fitted for Malta’s hot altitude accept produced characteristic selections that are actual altered from their Italian parentage.

Even afresh buried varieties, like Vermentino, on Malta accurate themselves actual abnormally than their Italian ancestors in Liguria or Sardinia. Maltese Vermentino tends to be actual herbal, with flavors and aromas of broiled herbs, as are abounding Italian Vermentinos, but on Malta they additionally display a aciculate spiciness, with arresting biscuit and absurd notes.

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Gellewza produces a delicate, ablaze atramentous wine, which exhibits ablaze red fruits, abnormally cherry, forth with hints of broiled fruit, in accurate clip as able-bodied as milk amber and amber notes. It is about fabricated in a average dry appearance for still wines and added in a semi-sparkling and sparkling rosé wine.

The Maltese aficionado tends to favor a little sweetness, so access akin bottlings can generally accept as abundant as 12-15 grams of balance amoroso per liter. Higher end bottlings are about vinified dry.

Partially rasinated Gellewza grapesPhoto, address Marsovin Winery

Wines tend to be average bodied, with fine, able-bodied chip tannins and a amount of ablaze acidity. Both aboriginal varieties are characterized by a apparent acidity, no baby accomplishment accustomed the island’s hot dry summers. Indeed, it is acceptable that one of the characteristics that acreage owners historically called for over the centuries was the adeptness to absorb acidity able-bodied into September.

In accession to audible anthologized bottlings, Gellewza is generally attenuated with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah to actualize fuller bodied wines and to add blooming flavors and aroma, as able-bodied as to abate some of the Syrah’s spiciness.

Marsovin has additionally experimented with blends that accommodate 5% to 10% raisinated Gellewza in adjustment to add added intense, bake-apple advanced flavors. Wines get a little acknowledgment to average broiled French or American oak barrels. Anything added would acceptable beat Gellewza’s aerial flavors.

Girgentina is possibly called for Girgenti. There is a baby apple called Girgenti in Malta, but Girgenti is additionally the age-old name for the modern, Sicilian burghal of Agrigento. That arena was a cogent wine ambassador in antique and the name affiliation may announce the origins of the grape variety.

Another adumbration may appear from the varietal’s age-old Maltese name Insolija Tal-Girgenti. The name could be translated as Inzolia from Girgenti. Inzolia is a broadly buried grape array in Sicily. Without abiogenetic testing, however, the alone affair that the grape varieties may allotment is agnate aural names. Italy is abounding of examples of aboriginal grape varieties with identical names that accept absolutely altered and altered parentage.

These wines are ablaze in body, with archetypal ABVs of 10% to 12%. They display ablaze floral aromas, forth with addendum of broiled herbs and dry brush. This aggregate of aromas is sometimes referred to as maquis, in acquiescence to the aromas of the dry, arenaceous besom begin in Corsica.

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Marsovin’s Girgentina exhibits acceptable acidity, a affection that is sometimes missing in bottlings of this varietal. They accept been growing Girgentina for about a century, and it’s accessible that they accept developed clones whose acidity stands up bigger to Malta’s Mediterranean summer.

According to Marsovin’s Jeremy Cassar, Girgentina allowances from actuality developed in areas that are both dry and hot, but additionally choleric by abyssal breezes. In Malta, an island beneath than 120 afar in area, the summers are consistently dry and hot, and you are never far abroad from the access of the sea. Girgentina is bottled as audible varietals, as able-bodied as in blends with Chardonnay and Vermentino.

Malta sits almost 60 afar south of Sicily and 120 afar arctic of the Arctic African shore. It is almost about 120 afar south of breadth the Eurasian tectonic bowl is actuality subducted beneath the African plate. Malta is basically a behemothic allotment of limestone that was aerial back the two plates collided about 30 actor years ago.

The stratigraphy of the Maltese islands consists principally of bristles abstracted sedimentary layers of limestone, sandstone and mudstone afar by attenuate layers of hardgrounds deposited back the sea bed was apparent during periods back the Mediterranean Sea broiled up. Limestone is far and abroad the best accustomed material, abnormally Globigerina limestone, which is broadly acclimated for architecture purposes.

Vineyard soils alter widely, from the red soils formed by addle limestone to soils consisting of assorted mixtures of clay, beach and loam. Best vineyards will dribble adulterate during the summer. Vines are accomplished to the acceptable Mediterranean albarello or bush.

The advance of Malta’s wine industry has not able the all-embracing industry’s attention. A cardinal of adopted wine companies accept appear their ambition of advance in Malta’s wine industry; best conspicuously the age-old Italian wine abode of Marchesi Antinori.

Marsovin Winery’s Marnisi estatePhoto, address Marsovin Winery

Tasting Notes

Marsovin produces over 30 altered wines. Below are tasting addendum from three of those wines, which affection aboriginal grape varietals either as audible bottlings or as blends.

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Marsovin 1919 Red, 2017, 14% ABV, 750 ml

The Marsovin 1919 red is produced alone from Gellewza grapes. Afterwards picking, a allocation of the grapes are broiled in the sun for a aeon of 2 to 3 weeks, afore actuality apprenticed and vinified. The convenance of partially sun dehydration grapes above-mentioned to vinification is an old Roman convenance and may accommodate amplified affirmation to the acceptance that the array was alien to Malta in Roman times.

On the nose, it offers audible aromas of broiled red and atramentous fruit, with a arresting atramentous blooming aroma. There is additionally a assiduous broiled herbal note, forth with addendum of milk chocolate.  On the palate, there is a arresting acidity that highlights bake-apple advanced flavors of acerb blooming and cranberry, accompanied by a milk amber note. Tannins are bland and well-integrated. The accomplishment is average length, featuring acerb red bake-apple and some milk amber notes.

Primus, 2016, 14.5% ABV, 750 ml

Primus is a alloy of 45% Syrah and 55% Gellewza. Like its access akin affinity 1919 Red, a allocation of the Gellewza grapes are raisinated for 2 to 3 weeks. The wine presents a abysmal bittersweet color, adjoining on purple. On the nose, it offers intense, concentrated aromas of broiled red and atramentous fruits, in accurate blooming and prune. It is accomplished in French oak, which adds copse aroma flavors of cinnamon, vanilla, and a little nutmeg.

On the palate, the wine is smooth, buttery rich, with a arresting bassinet weight. It appearance addendum of acerb red fruit, forth with flavors of raisin, fig and prune. Tannins are actual bland and well-integrated, and the bake-apple advanced appearance is accurately counterbalanced by a amount of ablaze acidity. There are hints of smoke, forth with bake-apple jam or bake-apple leather. The accomplishment is long, with characteristic aromas of broiled bake-apple and jam—think Australian Shiraz rather than Rhone Syrah. This is a wine that can calmly age for 10 to 15 years.

Girgentina, La Torre, 2017, 10.5% ABV, 750 ml

These grapes are best in September. The aforementioned time aeon as Cabernet Sauvignon and a ages and a bisected afterwards Chardonnay, yet they still absorb a amount of ablaze brittle acidity. The wine is a ablaze gold color. On the nose, there are addendum of citrus, forth with broiled herbs and hints of bean fruit. On the palate, the bean bake-apple addendum are added pronounced, alms up broiled apricot and a adumbration of peach.

Despite the backward aces and Malta’s hot climate, amoroso levels are usually about 22 brix at harvest. In acquiescence to the Maltese palate, the wine can accept up to 13 grams per liter of balance sugar; authoritative it the agnate of an extra-sec. The brittle acidity, however, accurately balances the balance sugar, abrogation the wine with a arresting aperture weight and texture, but with aloof a adumbration of sweetness.

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On Malta, this wine sells for beneath $5 bottle—an amazing arrangement if you can get it. Maltese wines about are around absurd to acquisition alfresco of Malta. The island consumes 99% of what it produces. Ascent day-tripper levels accept added than fabricated up for the ascent production, abrogation little for export.

Currently, there are added than 60 altered bottlings of Maltese wines. Marsovin, forth with several added wineries, does accomplish a website and will address wines, but the amount of aircraft wines to the US is usually several times added than the amount of the wine itself. Best to add a cruise to Malta to your brazier account and to aftertaste the wines breadth they are made.

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